Well hello Beautify friends! I’ve been so excited to hang out with you all again and share some delectable little beauty morsels with you! As most of you know, I’ve been a Pro Makeup Artist for over 30 years now and so it goes without saying (but I’m gonna say it anyway) you can trust the tips and goodies I share with you have been tried and tested on all kinds of faces, from across the globe and throughout several decades. Yes, indeed I have boldly gone through the 80s, weathered the storms of 90s grunge, and even figured out how to survive the glittery cut crease eyeshadow shenanigans of 2016! With all that crazy experience under my belt, I bet you’re chomping at the bit to dive into my makeup bag of tricks! So c’mon, let’s go.
Let’s start with the importance of brightening and how it can make a huge impact on your overall look. As I look back at the dark, smokey, black eyeliner-crusted trends of the 80s it makes me so thankful for the current trend of bright, open eyes. Take it easy on the fully lined eye and try opting for a smudged outer corner wing that simply elongates and defines the lash line, as well as accenting the upper eyelid. Make sure the liner disappears into the lashes halfway in so you’re not closing off that inner corner. Then splash a little shimmer right in that pocket to reflect light into the iris of your eye. It can help those peepers look bright and radiant!
This one, my dear friends, is a struggle that has evolved over the years. From white products that can grey as they dry, to piling on color correctors, and all the under eye blushing you can handle, this girl has tried it all. Let me make it way less complicated than the average influencer ever will. Use eye cream. Use it like a crazy lady. Never stop using it. Always wash the layers of makeup off at night that you’ve piled up under your eyes so you’re not just allowing all that build up to darken your skin even more. And when you’ve found a nice, moist concealer that’s about 1 to 2 shades lighter than your foundation, mix it with none other than… that’s right! Eye cream! Keep that delicate skin dewy for days in order to make it appear less wrinkly. Yes, you’re sacrificing some coverage by adding a little of the moisture packed good stuff to your concealer, but you just need to know, if you’re a friend over 40, go for the healthy luminous glow under your eyes rather than caking and baking like your name’s Duncan Hines.
The Magic of Highlighter
Highlighting the role of highlighter (pun intended!) in brightening the eyes is a personal all time fave. I already mentioned how simple it is to pop a little shimmer on the inner corner of the eye but let me tell you one of the best ways to get a little lift going on that brow bone is to lightly dust a line of highlight or shimmer right in the arch of your brow, directly below the hairs. It’ll grab and reflect light, giving it a lifted or more prominent appearance. You can use a tiny eyeshadow brush but I highly recommend a flat concealer type brush to just deposit the highlighter right in that little spot.
Tricks for Hooded Lids
This is where I’m going to put your adventurous side to the test!
- Choose your 3 shades of eyeshadow for the day and begin by applying the lightest shade over the entire lid. From lashes to brows, and side to side.
- Then use the second deepest shade right in the crease, go back and forth just like a windshield wiper… It can really be just that easy, but don’t get too much product on the brush or you’ll fling it everywhere. You can always add more if you need. But I want you to get a little crazy with this second color. Don’t just leave it there to disappear into the abyss of your hooded lid.
- Continue blending upward, closer to your brow than you ever thought necessary. That’s right, keep it rising. Blend and smoke that shade upward so when you open your eye, the shadow is still visible, just make sure it is well blended. This will create the appearance of a larger, higher crease.
- Then add your third shade, which should be the deepest of your selections. Add it at the outer corner and blend down toward the lash line and it should fade about a third of the way over so that inner corner is still left nice and bright, not closed off and dark. You can then take that same deep shade and smudge it along the bottom lash line for a smoky effect rather than a harsh line made with a pencil liner. This helps it last a little longer too if you have problems with eyeliner running and smearing. This little 3 shade technique will be your new go-to eyeshadow technique for sure, just give it a little practice! Trust me! I’ve been using this as my hooded eye weapon of choice for decades my friend!
The Final Touch: Mascara and Beyond
Wrap it up pretty lady and put a fabulous lash lifting finish on it. False lashes, especially from The Muses Collection by KISS are my absolute favorite accessory to add a pop and give a more youthful appearance to eyes but if you choose to go for a mascara only kinda day, it’s perfectly fine! In that case I highly recommend a buildable formula you can begin adding from lash base to tip.
Getting plenty of product down at the root will help achieve more length and lift. So instead of just piling a bunch right at the tips as fast as you can and probably poking yourself in the eye, take an extra minute to go down to the lash line and methodically pull the wand upward, all the way to the end as you slowly allow your eye to close. Remember it’s ok to leave your mouth hanging open! LOL! This actually helps relax the facial muscles and you might not blink as much. As far as choosing the mascara that’s right for you, just keep in mind, the bigger the brush, the bigger the lashes should be. If you’ve got tiny, short lashes, opt for a longer, skinny wand that’ll offer more precision and less mess.
A fun technique that’s making a comeback from the disco days of sultry makeup looks is called “Minking.” (Think mink coat) This is a technique you can use to make your lashes look thicker without them looking clumpier and heavier. Start with a full coat of brown mascara and then follow it by lifting the tips with a black mascara. Super cool, right? Well, give it a whirl, I think it’s worth the extra two minutes and I hope you like it!
MEET JACKIE ALVES
Jackie Alves helps women rediscover their beauty, gain new confidence, and boldly step into their next season of life. She’s the Co-Founder & Head Makeup Artist of The Beauty Bar Skincare & Makeup Studio, as well as the Head Educator of The Beauty Bar Pro Makeup Academy & Creator of the studio’s line of professional makeup products.
Jackie is the Founder & Beauty Educator of The Real Makeup Artist, a beauty brand featuring on-demand masterclasses and personal, online makeup tutorials focusing on “Real Makeup for Real Women” and how to “Become Your Own Makeup Artist”.
After landing her first makeup gig at the age of 17 in Las Vegas & now having over 30 years of experience in the beauty industry, Jackie uses her experience to help women overcome the challenges of finding practical beauty choices & techniques to fit their individual styles & needs in a world overrun with cosmetic companies, products, and procedures.
Jackie has worked with dozens of A-listers, including iconic fashion designers, Estel Day & Mark Tango of the fashion brand Mark & Estel, Movie Producer & Director, Kate Cohen of Straight Up Films, and several top photo & film studios in Las Vegas, Nevada.